How to Create the Perfect Apex for Your Acrylic or Gel Extensions


Hi everybody, i’m Kirsty Meakin from Naio Nails. In this video, I am gonna show you and talk to you about the correct apex placement. I’m gonna show you my very own nails. Now, please do not criticize my nails. I know they are shocking, but we are going to make them beautiful. Okay, work with me now come on. We’re gonna work on this finger here, my pointing finger. Can you see what it does? It’s got a wonk Adam: Hmm.
Kirsty:How strange is this? Apparently, that means I am the creative and independent. Kirsty: I was told by a lady who does all the old palm reading and all that stuff. Yeah, that’s right much. So yeah, so, we have to work, you know, we have to work with the the wonky finger. However, we will do some nice work on this. We’re gonna do correct apex placement. So, I’ve already prepped the nail. So I’ve removed the surface shine because I’ve just taken off my nails, just for you, so I can show you how to do stuff. Gonna put form on. We’re gonna close the end. Adam: Is there a different way of putting the form on when you doing it on yourself? Kirsty: Well, obviously when you put it on yourself, you haven’t got two hands to use. So, I hold the end like this, clip my finger, check the form fit and as I look at that, I can see we have a bit of gap going on there. So, I’m gonna make this curve here greater. So, I’m gonna cut that end. The reason I’m doing this is because I want it to fit, really snug. I don’t want it to break on me. Now, I see the gap. It is gone! Vamoose to the gap! So, it closed the form, I’m doing a stiletto nail. So, we’re gonna come up out of the cuticle like this and then come along and then start to drop down to there. Straight out of the sidewall, okay? So, I’m gonna show you this again when I’ve got my product on, so you can see exactly where that apex needs to lie. It needs to lie in the back third of the nail. So, that’s around about here. So, I’ve got max adhesion. I’m going to work on my length first. I’m going to dehydrate the nail and then I’m going to prime with two coats of primer. I’m going to use soft beige and a filler brush with liquid. You gotta tap the side to take any excess off. and I’m gonna bounce, bounce…place that straight on. So, I’m mainly concentrating on the free edge. So, I’m going to sculpt that out… using the body of the brush to help me keep the sides nice and straight. Now, I’m going to work on the apex placement, tipping the finger down, clean my brush, clean my brush, getting the cuticle nice and neat. And I’ll let the acrylic do its own thing, by following down the nail, will let gravity take its toll on the acrylic. And then now, we can start to bring those two sections together. And you can already see that the apex is there. I’m just building some strength now. So, you can see, if you look at the side view of this, that we have the highest point of the apex in the back third of the nail and then it starts to taper down. No matter what shape you are doing, you will put the apex in the back third. I’m gonna pinch this. Gotta put my pinching tool on. Check it’s not collapsing, and I can let it do its thing. I’m just pinching from the apex, which is here, down to the very tip. So, I’m doing that with my fingers and I’m gonna check down the barrel so I can see the pinch as well. Now, even if you are using the tip, you would do the same apex placement. Don’t be confused and think that it’s just for when you sculpt, it’s exactly the same if you were doing your tip and overlay. I’m going to take my form off now. Tada! I don’t think I’m going to be able to keep that nail that long. However, I do like it. You mister. I’m gonna file my nail now. What you need to be careful is that you’re not going to remove your apex while you file as well. So, when you come to do your cuticle area, you want that nice and neat. But you need to make sure that when you come to this apex area then, don’t completely file it away. Make sure, you know, you’ve laid it in there, you don’t want to ruin the good work that you’ve done. I am gonna file the length. So, if you look at this, you can see that the highest point is in the back third and that’s just where you want it. Now, imagine if this nail was square, it would flow from the back third, so as you look at this file… see If I can hold that at the same time, my God, I’m multitasking! It would go to here and that would be your square nail. Can we like draw that in? They still come out in the back third. So, all that structure is there in the back third. It’s so important to have this apex laid in the back third because this will support the rest of the nail. You know, it’s the real strong man. He is there. If he’s not there, it’s gonna let you down. I’m gonna buff this now just to get it nice and smooth. I’m gonna wipe over with some pure acetone just to make that nice and shiny for you. And I’m just going to put some cuticle oil on. If you look between the scissors here, that is where your apex needs to lie. It needs to lie in that back third there in that area because if we go half, this is half…yeah? You one third it, there’s one third, there’s your second third, so, that’s your back third. That’s where you want the highest point of the nail to be. It’s very, very, very important to get that. It will help make your nails last longer, it will help make your clients nails last longer, and it will also look nicer to the eye as well. So, I hope that’s really helped you guys out. Because we’ve had lots of questions about what is an apex? Where should the apex be? What gibberish are you talking about Kirsty? So, I hope that that’s really helped you to understand all about the apex. There you are, guys! I hope you’ve enjoyed the video. Don’t forget to check us out on Facebook and Instagram. The product we’ve used today will be in the description box below as always and I’ll see you guys in the next video. Bye bye!

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