HomeArticlesHow to Sculpt a Matte Acrylic Extension without Top Coating
How to Sculpt a Matte Acrylic Extension without Top Coating
August 26, 2019
Hi everybody, I’m Kirsty Meakin from Naio Nails. In this video, I’m going to show you how to do a matte design and we’re gonna use black because we like a bit of black in our life. Actually, this design has been chosen by the fabulous JJ. Adam: Welcome back, J! Kirsty: Welcome back! She’s been missing for a while because she’s had zero chance, she’s at work and all that but her work life has changed for the better, so we have JJ back and she could have long nails. Let’s get cracking! I think your hands will start getting better as well now. Now, you’re not gonna be as stressed, the job’s gonna be less stressful because JJ has flares up of dermatitis and stuff like that. I mean, mine’s getting a little bit better. Although, I do have a pore in here that keeps opening but JJ has flares up of that. You are under a dermatologists, aren’t you? and all that… JJ: I am. Kirsty: ** special creams and lotions and potions. And then, what I will tell you is, you see my nails? JJ: There isn’t a video. There’s not a video for these nails. I did these nails for Vegas myself. Just got back from Vegas. Those that have seen my snapchat would have seen all about Vegas. So, I’m gonna work on this index finger today. This beautiful nail. Look at JJ’s nails. Aren’t they gorgeous? I’m just gonna wipe over JJ’s nail with some gel residue wipe off solution because they have got a little bit of oil on them, I want to take that off. They have been prepped already because I’ve taken JJ’s gel polish off. And then what we’re gonna do is, we’re gonna sculpt out the nail and use sculpting form. So, we’re gonna fit the sculpting form. If you have trouble fitting the sculpting forms and you need a little bit of assistance with that and advise**, we do have a video all about fitting sculpting forms. So you can watch that tutorial. It’ll be linked somewhere. I’m gonna dehydrate the nail to make sure it’s got no oil on there. And now I have wiped over, but that’s gonna reinforce that. I’m gonna use the acid free primer. I wanna wait till the nail goes completely matte. As you can see, it’s going matte now. That means all of that dehydrator has evaporated and that’s what you want. And now I’m gonna put the primer on. I’ve got high-speed liquid in my damping dish. I’m gonna create a smile line with this one. I’m gonna pick a bead, I’m gonna bleed the back end of that brush out. This is warm beige that I’m using. Placing it towards the end of the nail and I’m just gonna bring this back. I’m not gonna concentrate on the actual smile line yet, I’m gonna blend that back first. And then, I can come in and start to adjust the smile line. You want to point the finger down when you’re doing this, so everything sort of starts to draw down onto the nail form. If you’re not really quick at working, then you can change the liquid and use max adhesion or high, not high-speed, sorry…or medium-speed. I like to use high-speed because you know, I’m quite quick. And you want to start this smile line where the natural nail finishes, so you’re gonna bring it out from here and then extend the smile line. So we’re extending the nail plate and the nail bed, so it looks like it’s a really long nail bed. Short nail beds don’t look this beautiful. They’re definitely more beautiful, when they’re a little bit longer. You want this brick wall nice and seamless and this is gonna give you a sharp smile line. Now, I can get a bead, you don’t need to bleed this out. I’m gonna clean my brush and then I can start to work this. If you bleed this bead out, it will set quicker and it will be… it won’t be as mouldable and we wanna use this to feather down onto the previous bead. So don’t bleed it out, it will work a lot better for you. I’m gonna use pure black now. I do think matte black looks amazing. I mean i do love black. I had Sham* stay over, who’s my best friend’s mom and she’s from Milton Keynes. Well, she’s actually from Stoke-on-Trent, but she lives on Milton Keynes now. She came over and she stayed at mine. She’d not stayed at mine before and she said “mmm, you do like black, don’t you, Kirsty?” and I was like “oh yeah! Because I have a lot of black in my house.” She said she was contemplating falling asleep in the front room because she was tired but she said well, with all the black and the skulls, she thought she’d wake up and get herself a fright. So, we’ve done the black on the free edge, I’m just gonna put a little bit of clear, connecting everything together. Now, the black is really pigmented, so you do need to make sure you keep everything quite clean. So, when you go, if you sweep your brush onto the natural beige, then you’ll see that you get a bit of pigment on there. So, you do need to sort of keep that nice and clean. So, I’m just going to neaten up that edge, so I have less filing to do. and I get everything as neat as you can, it’ll reduce your filing down. I’m gonna pinch this nail now. I’ve given it enough time just set up a little bit. I’m just gonna pinch it just to make that C-curve a little bit stronger, a bit more curved. Alright, you can take it off now. Just gonna take off the sculpting form and then I’m gonna do my normal filing routine, which is the sidewalls first. get those nice and straight and clear. And then I’m gonna go round the cuticle area. Then I’m gonna remove the bulk, I’m using of coarse file for this. This is the 80 grit file now. I would never use this 80 grit file on a natural nail and I would never use it around the cuticle area. I only really use this for removing bulk. And this is a 240 grit file which is really soft and I’m using this because I really want to see the smile line. I want to see how sharp it is because you’ll notice if there’s loads of scratches right from this, you can’t see it as clear but when you use a soft file, you can see the smile line a lot easier. I’m just gonna go over with my white block just to smooth the nail out even more. And I’m gonna wipe over with acetone. Magic little trick that will get rid of those demarcations. It will smooth the nail out, make it nice and smooth like a baby’s ***. Look at the difference in that and that’s what we want. So, now you know it’s nice and smooth, if we’re gonna make this nail matte without using products. So this is different type of matte nail. You’re gonna take your 240 grit file and you’re gonna whip over it just lightly, so you’re not changing the shape, you’re just removing any shine because even wiping over with acetone will give it a little bit of a shine. I needed to wipe over with acetone because I needed to know if it is all smooth. But this is gonna make it matte, so make sure you go around all of the nail. So, if you think you can’t make a nail matte because of you know, you don’t have certain products, you know, this is a cheat way of doing it. I’m gonna wipe over with gel residue wipe off solution. Now, this isn’t gonna mount the nail or anything like that, it’s just gonna clean it up. And you can see that it’s matte. Now, what we’re gonna do is get the … I’m gonna use serious black. I’ve got backing paper from the sculpting form. Little bit of the black on there. In the damping dish, I’m going to put some of the gel residue wipe off solution just to clean the brush. That’s all I’m going to use that for. Because we’re working with gel, you want everything to be nice and clean. So, you’re going to take your detailing brush. This is a long detailing brush, so it’s nice for doing things like this and that’s what we’re gonna do. What you’ll find because the nail is matte, the gel polish won’t move, it’ll stick to it really well. Gonna pop that into the lamp and cure that now. On the black area, we’re gonna continue this pattern. JJ: ** Adam: So, you’re gonna have some shiny bits and some matte bit? Kirsty: Yeah! How sexy is that? Adam: I’ve never known you do that though. Kirsty: Yeah! This is sexalitious. Adam: No, but I what I mean is by not topcoating top coat. Are you gonna put the top coat on acrylic? I’ve never known you do that. Kirsty: it’s a new thing.
Adam: Cool. Right Pop me that in the lamp. Now, I was naturally gonna go “and now I’m gonna top coat it” but we’re not, we’re not gonna coat. We’re just gonna wipe over with the gel residue wipe off solution. Just taking off that sticky layer. Now, if you feel it, it’s not that sticky, It has a very, very slight sticky layer. And you can see that it’s textured at the end, slightly shinier. It’s not, I wouldn’t say it’s a high shine, It’s more of a sheen I think that affect though is kind of cool and it makes it look embossed as well. Adam: If you want to be dead shiny, maybe go over that with the topcoat? Kirsty: You could, yeah. You could do that. What I’m gonna do now is add something gorgeous to the nail and make it a little bit sparkly, but we’re not gonna add bling because you know me, I normally add bling but not on this occasion. We’re gonna add one of these little beauties. So, I’m gonna pop this here and you can do it with glue, you can do with the brush-on glue, or we can do it with acrylic. Acrylic is gonna hold it on a little bit better, so I’m gonna put it on with the acrylic. So, I’m gonna use a 3D brush, clear, crystal clear and high speed liquid. Pop that bead where you want it. Pick up a heart, press it in to the acrylic, hold it in place. You can use a dotting tool to hold this in place. And then I’m gonna look around it and I just want a little bit here, so it kicks up. We’re gonna fill in that area. The good thing with the acrylic is it will dry matte so you will be able to seal it on this matte nail. And there’s a tiny bit here. I wanna make sure it’s sealed and you know, well adhered to the nail. Just put a bit of pressure on to check that it’s all stuck and it is. Lastly, gonna pop a little cuticle oil on. Little bit, only around the cuticle area. If you then rub this all over the nail, it will make it shiny. So, anywhere that the cuticle oil touches like here, this is what you can do. Take a little bit of the gel residue wipe off solution onto a lint free pad and you can just wipe that off. So you still have your matte nail. That’s so cute! JJ: That’s beautiful!
Kirsty: Yeah. Kirsty: Gorgeous matte nail with a design and a little bit of metallic on there. JJ : Not bling.
Kirsty: Not bling. Kirsty: However, the next video might have bling in, forgive me. There you are guys! I hope you’ve enjoyed that video. Don’t forget to check us out on Facebook and Instagram and all that shebang. Comment below, tell us what you thought about this nail, we’d love to hear your comments. Give us a thumbs up and I’ll see you in the next video. Bye bye. Adam: So, why is this not bling? for me that’s bling. Kirsty: Oh, is that? Well, because you’re a man, that’s why you think it’s bling. It’s not bling, this is bling.
A That’s bling. This is just a piece of metal. This is metallic, yeah.