Make Your Beads SPIN! Glass Bead & Polymer Clay Kinetic Jewelry Tutorial


Incorporating beads with polymer clay is
nothing new, but what about incorporating your beads directly into a polymer clay
piece, like dangling from the center? This is kind of a fun technique and a great
way to use some smaller beads you may have that still want to be focal points. Hi there, Sandy here, welcome to another polymer clay jewelry video at
keepsakecrafts.net. I’ve had several of these Czech pressed glass beads for some
time and I really like them, they’re very interesting and different but they’re a
little small to be focals. So I’ve seen some of these pendants floating around
the internet with beads in the centers and I wanted to try it out for myself. The main thing you will need is some sort of a cutter that is a little bit
bigger than your beads. So for the heart I have this one which is pretty much
just right or for the circles you just need a little bit of space around it. Then you need some clay so that you can cut out a shape and cut out the hole in
the center for your bead, sorta like that. These ones are fun because they’re different on both sides so you could
play with them and spin them and I’ll show you more about that in a bit. I’m
opting to use solid color clay here today but you could use clay with a
pattern in it like mokume gane or stripes or any kind of surface treatment
you want. I sort of want my beads that are in the middle to shine so I’m going
to keep it simple and just add some texture. I have lots of different sheets
here for texture I’ll have links to as many of them as I can find links to, even
some homemade texture plates like steampunk gears. For this one I’m going
to use this which is Barbara McGuire’s Klimt’s Carpet. I just love all the
different textures in here. I really like using Armor All as a release, you only
need a tiny bit, put it on not on the stamp but actually on the clay and then
rub it really thin. In fact you could actually wipe it right off and you would
still have a thin layer on there. Funny story: when my boys were younger we
bought them a trampoline for our backyard and one day
they decided to Armor All the trampoline. That was interesting and even though
they went in and wiped it off it stayed slippery for quite a while. They had a
fun time on that trampoline. So I’m just gonna choose a section of my stamp and
press on it here with an acrylic block. You want a fairly deep impression which
is why you might be able to tell I’m standing up here rocking it slightly
because the next step is going to soften your texture a little bit. I have my two
cutters chosen here, I’m actually going to first choose a place for my bead. Now
this bead is drilled diagonally, I need to remember that. So take a little time to
plan out where you want it to go. I’ve got here a bit of plastic this is what’s
going to soften your texture a little bit. So I hope you are finding this video
inspirational and helpful and if you have I hope that you will consider
becoming a patron. My patrons get not only the satisfaction of knowing that
they’re keeping these tutorials coming for everybody but they also get the
opportunity to get bonus tutorials every month and there’s sneak peeks,
behind-the-scenes, free templates. I try to give my patrons as much as I can. Again, place my bead… now my stringing cord is going to be through the bead so I
need to remember that however I position this do I want this… do I want it? Well, that’s kind of
fun, oh maybe I’ll have it hanging at a diagonal, hmm, crooked? No, crooked would
make me crazy. I think at a diagonal. It doesn’t have to be centered, either. I’m
just gonna press that in lightly just to kind of make a couple marks so I know,
bring my plastic back and cut that out. The next thing you want
to do is get some pretty thick stringing wire this is I think point two four or
nearly a quarter of a millimeter thick which is very thick stringing wire. String your bead onto the wire, you only need you know maybe a 5 or 6
inch piece, take your pendant shape, if you need to do some smoothing on the
edges you can, get it shaped just the way you want, lay your bead in there and now
you can decide how your pendant hangs. And here’s a cool trick to keep things
level. If you want them to hang a particular way get yourself an index
card and put it line side up. I don’t have to eyeball it I can actually line
up those corners so they’re going across the same line, then I can take my wire
and have it exit the pendant at the same point on both sides and just press that
into the clay. So this next line up, so you have a little bit of a graceful
curve that will keep your pendant from flipping upside down but it will be
level the way you want it whichever direction you want your piece to hang. Press that wire in just lightly, you don’t want to wreck the texture on the
other side, as long as the wire is at least halfway into the clay you’re good,
and then you just go ahead and bake that. You can pull this out first and go ahead
and bake that. Here’s one I did earlier and I decided I wanted my pendant
hanging this way and that wire snaps right in that spot. I love that I can
flip that around, I don’t know why that just makes me so happy, ha! Oh by the way
the clay here is rolled out to about a number three setting, two layers of the
thickest setting of the pasta machine I found were just a little too thick. So
here’s your backing and if you want you can texture that. I probably would if I if
this we’re more than just a demo but I’m just
demonstrating here. So you cut out a matching piece for the backing, then what
you have to do is flip it over, get your piece on there, I might just have to mark
it a little bit there, that way I have my hole in the back in the same spot. The
next thing you’ll want to do is get some liquid clay, go ahead and put that… don’t
get it in the channel or even too close to the channel with the stringing wire,
just a thin coat of liquid clay so that the baked clay will bond to your unbaked
clay, put your bead back on the stringing wire if you need to and put it in place
on that piece that, that baked piece that you made, putting the wire into the
stringing channel, it should just pop right in, and then lay that on top, sandwiching the wire in between. Now is the time to take a little time and make these
edges as nice as you can. We can go back and fix them later, it really is easier
to get it as nice as you can now, nice and smooth and even. Once you’ve done
that you can pull out the wire, you can bake it with the wire in or not it
doesn’t matter. I would make sure and give it a tug, so make sure that it moves
freely in there and even if there’s a little TLS on it when you, when it’s all
baked you’ll be able to pull it out. Here’s one I did earlier. I did it a
little bit differently because the heart is strung up and down but other than
that it’s pretty much the same way, you can see I went ahead and strung on some
bead stringing wire. Again, because it’s strung up and down I have a double
length going through the hole and that’s the great thing about using that really
thick stringing wire is that you have plenty of room for even a couple strands
a finer wire. My cutter is a little bit bigger than my heart so I may add a
couple beads down here just to kind of center it in the hole, and the edges are
pretty nice, they could use a little bit of sanding. You can also take a little
tiny bit of your clay and sort of backfill, press that in there. Don’t take your wire out for this, leave that thicker bead stringing wire in
there for this. I thought I could do it without the wire and miss my holes and I
can’t tell you how long I’ve spent looking for my holes again on my other
piece! So you can do that and then of course it would need another bake but
that makes those edges smooth. Iff you use a metallic like I did on a couple of
these it’s going to be tough to hide the edges completely, the seams, because the
mica flakes in the metallic clay tend to look different at different angles. Here
are a few of my pendants all done. You know it’s funny, when you begin a project
like this you think you know what you’re going to like but you just keep
experimenting and trying things and sometimes the unexpected things are your
favorites. This one I wasn’t really caring for until I put the patina and
finish on. I’ll show you how to do that in just a minute.
I also swapped out the black bead for the white, I’m not sure, I think the white
one. It’s really fun the way the beads spin, this is a fun necklace to wear and
fidget with and play with. Let me show you how I did the coloring on this one,
I’ll do this one final side. This one was done with patinas, Vintaj patinas in
cobalt and gold and I’ll show you what I mean. I used one color for the background
and that one gets a brushed on first so you just add a few drops and brush it all over. Of course you can
finish these any way you want this is just what I did and I was really pleased
with the results, you can just do a simple antiquing with acrylic paint. When
you do this I’m using a brush to make sure I get down into all the crevices Next I’m using a dry paper towel, I don’t want any moisture on this, wipe it off,
find a clean spot and wipe again. Next I’m going to use another color. I’m gonna use
one that’s fairly close to the green because I did choose this green color to
go with the green bead, so I’m gonna stick with green here, dab it on a
surface and then take your finger and tap it and keep tapping until you have
just a very small amount. Basically you just want to have enough to dry brush, so
to speak, because this color is close to the clay I’m not going to get a big huge
difference here but you can kind of see it’s making a difference. I think I’ll
hit these edges too which got some got blue from the other side. This one,
unfortunately, is not going to spin in here. I didn’t have a cutter the right
size so I used a craft knife to cut that out and I cut it a little close, I
actually had to shave it down a bit after baking to make it fit, but that’s
okay, I think it’s kind of cool, it’s like a little window in there. Make sure you
don’t wait too long to clean your brushes cuz this stuff does dry quickly. So there’s that, and just to show you this one I used white Vintaj patina,
I think the color is called marble, painted it on, wiped it off, so there’s
the white in the recesses, and then I went over the top with the rose gold
which I just love and on the back I did the opposite. I painted on rose gold
wiped it off and left rose gold in the recesses and then dry brushed
over with my finger with the marble, the white. This one I just put I think some
moss, and I think there was another green color Jade in the greens and tried to
wipe off most most of it. I didn’t put anything over the top. This one got antique bronze and antique copper in the recesses and then I went
over the top with a combination just kind of here and there: rose gold, gold and
the antique copper. Just some ideas for you. I hope that this sparks an idea for
your own creativity. If you’re interested in the supplies I’m using you should
click on the little “i” in the upper right of the video or in the description box
to go to my blog post where I always have a complete supply list with links
to products. Be sure to subscribe if you haven’t already and take a peek at my
Patreon page for how you can get great rewards and bonus tutorials. Happy
creating, bye bye.

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