Making Regalia – Episode 4

♪ [MUSIC] ♪ Welcome back. My name is
Joaquin Lonelodge and this is “Making
Regalia.” We are coming up to another episode right
now. The last time we finished up like doing
actual design work with material. Today we are
going to talk about doing some beadwork. Beadwork
is more essential to most powwows. You can go to
most powwows out there you’ll see different
styles of beadwork to your contemporary design work
to your more traditional design work,
family designs, tribal designs and today
what I want to get is actually I want to show
you step-by-step on how I get my beadwork ready to
bead. We are going to use different materials
such as crib felt. That material right there I
like to use it because it holds the beads down
perfectly and you know underneath it, it is white
so it actually brings out the colors that you use
as far as your beads and makes them more vibrant
and since it is waterproof it actually makes the
beadwork that you design and make a little bit more
durable so it’ll last a little bit longer.
It is kind of a more contemporary
material to use. I know my grandmothers before
then you know always used buckskin. But being a
powwow dancer as myself you know my moccasins from
a long time ago used to wear out really quick. So,
this I kind of go behind my grandmother’s back to
actually make hopefully she doesn’t see this episode
but this is actually how I do my moccasins and today I am
actually going to be designing my daughter’s beadwork. My
daughter dances Fancy Shawl and Jingle. Today we
are actually going to do a matching set. So, I am
going to show you step by steps on actually how to
get your pieces ready to bead going forth from
here. Now going into beadwork, there are a lot
of different styles out there. You have
your gourd stitch, you have your flat stitch,
and you also have your lazy stitch. The lazy
stitch as far as I have ever known has always
been your more traditional style design. I have seen
my grandmother do a lot of different dresses and a
lot of different beadwork using this style and
you know I have tried it before and it was actually
the first style I ever tried to do beadwork. It
took me a little bit of time because I am not
really that fluent as far as my grandmother because
I know like she has done it more times than I have.
It is kind of hard to work with because you know you
have to actually pierce buckskin and come back and
go through it a couple of times. Right here I do
have an example of some kind of lazy stitch
beadwork here. These are actually a little girl’s
beadwork leggings and if you can see this is
actually done on buckskin. You will see like the
little lines and stuff. What they will do is
actually pierce inside the buckskin, bead and then
come back through it and pierce it again
and come back, loop it back and forth. On
your fully-beaded outfits when you use lazy stitch
you’ll see a long line and then you’ll see another
like indention and you’ll see the other lines of
beads and stuff so you will always seen an
indention mark and that is kind of how you can
tell that stitch mark is actually from the lazy
stitch beadwork style. Now there are other styles
out there as far as gourd stitch too. That one is
actually kind of beading on as far as a
gourd to like, you know, staffs to
sticks. That incorporates beads going around
in a circle and then inter-looping them all the
way through it. So you’ll have one row of
inter-looping onto another row inter-looping onto
another row. That style is pretty wicked as far as I
am concerned. It is one style that I haven’t
really perfected and kudos to everybody that
has. It is just, you know, I just haven’t
really figured it out. To me, mine always comes
out looking like a little flared out dress.
I mean, you know, I haven’t got it down just
yet. With more practice I think I might be able
to get it but kudos to everybody that does gourd
stitch out there. The stitch that I’ve been
accustomed to and that I have kind of fallen into
and the one I actually find, you know, very time
efficient is actually the flat stitch. This is
the kind of style I love, to bead this way. I can
knock out like a lot of my productivity really
quick doing this style of beadwork. Plus, you know,
it helps when I actually do my design work. It
actually allows me to do rounded edges and straight
edges faster than it would your traditional like lazy
stitch. So what we are going to do is I am going
to get these pieces ready first and I will get to on
actually the technique on actually how to do
the flat stitch. Traditionally, you know,
beads have always been a part of the Native
American culture. You know, we first started
getting beads a long time ago trading, you know, for
different goods and stuff, and we never actually
had beads in the very beginning but now it has
been so common that as soon as you go to powwows
you’ll see all styles of beadwork. You know, you’ll
show there are a lot of different tribes that
have their own significant designs that they like
to incorporate with their beadwork as far as
geometrics and today along, you know,
there are also styles of contemporary styles of
beadwork too. Now what we are going to do is I am
going to show you actually a step-by-step on actually
I get all of my beadwork ready to go and since
we are going to do some leggings. Leggings
are a little bit more complicated but I will
show you how I do it and you know hopefully you can
take it upon yourselves to kind of show your own
style and maybe come up with your own techniques
and stuff but this kind of how i do my
technique. Like I said, I am going to start a
new set for my daughter. I plan to, you know, like
have a matching set first so when we go
out to powwows, you now, at least we will
match and stuff. What I want to do is I will
show you actually how I designed her moccasin.
Now you see I have used actually just regular copy
paper. I like using this because, you know,
even if you mess up, you know, you can just
trash it and go and do it again, and do it again,
and really know as far as price-wise you are not
really spending a lot of money. So what I did is I
actually drew her foot out here and always what you
want to do is like since you are making moccasins
and you want these to last a little bit longer,
always try to make them a little bit bigger so they
will actually have time to grow into them and they’ll
actually be able to use them a lot. So, here, I’ve
got this template here where I drew out her foot.
I am actually going to use that to cut out rawhide
but I am not going to actually do the exact foot
line. I’m probably going to go a little bit
probably maybe a quarter of an inch a little bit
bigger around the foot. That way you know she will
have a little bit of time to grow into them. Now
you’ll see that on this flip side I have actually
cut out what I want the moccasin to look like.
This takes a little bit of time, you know, a little
trial and effort. I’ve used the footprint that I
had before and then I kind of cut out probably about
one quarter of an inch. No probably about one half an
inch around the foot and so when I actually had her
here I cut out the slit right up the middle and
slit here. That is kind of how the traditional
moccasins kind of sit. But if you see when I actually
fold it up and turn it, I’ve got my own
little paper moccasin, and that is kind of how I
want it to look and that is how like if I was using
buckskin this is actually what it would look like.
But sometimes using paper, I can mess it up, I can do
this over again. But that is how I get my moccasins
from there. Now her leggings I did the pretty
much the same thing. What I did is I measured around
her ankle to her calf muscle and then what I
did is I actually did the length of it and since we
are going to do kind of a Northern Style I want
these ones to actually kind of go around her
leg instead of like the traditional Southern Style
buckskin legging and what I also did is I cut like
two little niches right here. This will actually
go in front of her foot so the legging won’t
actually spin around. So, if you see, once I got
this rounded the legging will come out just looking
perfectly like that. You will also see that
when I do cut this, it is actually at
an angle because, you know, you have to
incorporate the calf muscle and what
not. So, once again, the legging will come out
looking like this. Now, since I’ve got my
templates here, what I want to do is
start using like my base materials to get my
materials ready to bead. What I would like to use
is a little bit of stiffer paper. This allows it to
give it a little bit of stiffness.
Now, like I said, we are going to start
using kind of a stiffer material. This kind of
gives it a little bit of stability. I actually
use these templates to cut this out. This right here
is art paper. As far as sketch paper,
sketch pads and stuff, I kind of use this because
the density is a little bit better and it’ll
actually hold my beadwork together and plus for the
legging it will actually give it stability to
hold all the beadwork and stuff. And so,
what I did is, you know, I traced this
onto my sketch paper here and then I just cut this
out. Now you see I have a little bit of masking tape
here. Don’t even worry about that. That is just I
actually ran out of paper and actually I had to
add this in here. So, don’t even worry about
that so that’ll just be here and you know if you
do mess up that is kind of a trick that I do is I
kind of masking tape it in. You don’t want to
use too much masking tape because sometimes it is
hard to actually bead through this. So, we have
this. What we also have here is crib felt. Crib
felt you can find at most fabric stores, even
Walmart. Crib felt is pretty durable
material. If you see, it is not
pliable, you know, it doesn’t really stretch
which is a good thing when you are actually beading.
The other part I like about it is it is white
underneath and if you are ever dealing with glass
beads when you set them against the crib felt it
makes them more vibrant and it brings out
your color and tone all together. So, what we
are going to do is we are going to use our trusted
heat bond which we have used in our last episodes.
I am going to actually heat bond over here and
then apply the crib felt on top of that and then
cut this out and then we will have our pieces
ready to design for our beadwork. So now we are
coming to the part where we are going to heat
bond this tracing paper actual sketch pad paper
and then we are going to apply it to the crib felt.
If you see it is just like regular like when we
worked with it the last time. I am just going to
put the adhesive side down onto the paper and take my
iron and go over it. Now, like I said, you know, a
time ago like our last episodes say you might
want to get an iron that you really don’t want to
kind of deal with or you know iron your actual work
clothes with because you know working with like
materials like this you are going to get it gunked
up and after time you will have materials on here
and you don’t want to iron your clothes and actually
transfer materials onto your work clothes. So, what I
did here is it got like the heat
bond ready kind of hot and if you see you know I kind
of have a little overlay of the heat bond. What I
am going to do there is just cut this out.
Now, doing this, this isn’t I wouldn’t say
like a traditional style of moccasins. I’ve had
moccasins all through my life that I’ve always had
buckskin and always had traditional style and I
remember one set you know it was like after learning
how to actually make regalia I kind of feel bad
that a long time ago there was a story that I do
have. My mom actually bought be a brand new
set of partially beaded moccasins which are
kind of like your leggings here. I didn’t
really understand that, you know, I was just a kid
and I was actually in tiny tots, and the first
time I wore them, you know, this
buckskin is very bright, even when it is brand new.
I remember I was still in tiny tots and I had my
little bustles on and I saw a mud puddle and I
jumped right in it and it pretty much ruined them.
My mom was elated mad at me and I did not
understand why. I just, you know, I
was just a kid, but learning after making
regalia it does take a lot of time and hopefully my
daughter doesn’t actually backfire and do the
same thing for these ones because I don’t know what
I would do. But you see what I did is going back
to this I heat bonded this and now all I have to do
is put the adhesive and actually add it to
my crib felt. So, what we are going to do,
is I am going to finish up ironing this real quick to
get all the adhesive down and I think I’ve talked
about working with this before. You kind of want
to give it a little bit of time to actually cool down
because the adhesive is still melted on there and
it gives it a little bit of time to actually cool
down. The adhesive will stay on to the paper that
you are working with. So, just let it
cool for a second, and while it is cooling I
am going to go ahead and do this one too, so. Now,
like what I said before, this is kind of a more
contemporary style of doing beadwork as far as getting
these pieces ready because you are not actually using
buckskin which is the more traditional style. This is
kind of more material but if you see with this other
style of beadwork that I have, it’s fully
beaded and if I was doing moccasins all this would
actually be buckskin. So, I’ve got this done,
just like the other one, I am just going to cut out
my piece I am going to be working with, straight up. So, out there if my grandma
Charlotte is watching me, you know, just
kind of overlook me, and I know I should be
making traditional style moccasins, but
sorry grandma, it is just sometimes you
know like this style is a little bit more durable. I
promise I will make some traditional style ones.
Just overlook me on this one. And there we go. And
so we’ve got this piece done earlier, so all I’ve
got to do now is just pull the paper off here and
the adhesive will actually stay to the paper that we
are working with. Come on. There we go. Pull this paper off. Ahh, okay. Good to go. So, now,
all we need to do is take our crib felt,
place it down, use our iron again. Let it set for a minute
because you know it is still
melting but once it does cool you know this will
be attached perfectly on here. And now all we’ve
got to do is cut this out. Earlier I already cut the
other side out so pretty much you can kind of get
an idea of what this is going to look
like, you know, you have a clean slate and
it is very vibrant. This allows you to
use a pencil, pens, you can design
anything that you want perfectly right on here.
So you can use traditional designs, you
know, family designs, anything that you want,
and the cool part is you know you have a really
good stiffness here that you know it is pretty
pliable but you know it is going to be pretty durable
and last you a couple of years. Here I’ve already
got this already designed out. This is going to be my
daughter’s legging. Here you will see I have my
little bit of ledger work and then I have our
matching designs. I am going to do the exact same
color combination so this will actually be yellow in
here with a border of blue also correlating with
the other colors of my beadwork to her
beadwork. So, when it comes together, it
will look just like that. It will have a little
warrior on one side. I am going to do another one
with a warrior coming in so it looks like they’ll
be matching but you know they will actually be
coming in together and probably fighting at the
same time. If you see like this material
here, this crib felt, it is really easy to work
with. You’ll see I have my trace marks and I also
have my permanent pen. I like to do that because
you can actually erase on here. I like to do my
sketch of art kind of real faint at first and
like everything where I actually want it and then
from there I will come out with a permanent pen and
put it in permanent. If you’ll see here, you know,
I’ve kind of drawn my little warrior out and
it is not really darkened just yet because i wanted
to fine tune that and once I fine tune it, you know,
that’s when I will use my permanent pen.
From here, you know, I can do anything I want.
I am going to design like his shield real quick, a
real easy design that I’ve kind of come up
with. But, you know, don’t be afraid to
work with this and, you know, use
erasers. Like I said, the first times
I have done it, just kind of go real soft
with your pencil until you kind of figure out what
design you really want to do. That way, you
know, you can erase and, you know, you don’t really
damage the material that much. Because if you
can kind of go with a permanent and try to erase
you’ll see. I messed up earlier on one of these
triangles I was going to do and I tried to erase
it and it kind of got dark and if you’re a
perfectionist like me, it is kind of annoying to
myself. So just kind of like I said, you know,
just go over it real gentle until you see what
design you want to do and from there, you can fine
tune it from there. So here I am just
going to design it, kind of feeling like
this little design here, and we’re good.
And, you know, later on I am going
to come over this with permanent marker,
permanent pen. That way all my designs are perfect
and the way I want them and, you know, I know
there are some people out there that kind of aren’t
comfortable with free handing like
this. You know, this kind of took me a
little time to do and maybe you don’t actually
have the technical ability to do this.
There are, you know, short cuts and a way
you can do this. You can always find
pictures off the internet, use copy machines. That
way you can cut out the actual design that you
want maybe put them on here like we
have done before, make templates, and
then you can trace it out, have your design perfectly
just the way you want it and trace it on to this
material and you will have your beadwork. So
there are times, you know, you can do
that, if you don’t feel comfortable actually
free-handing. So that is why, you know, the
internet is pretty cool in that you can find a lot
of different designs out there. So this week we’ve
got our pieces ready to bead. I am going to go
through here and finish up all of these other
pieces and get them ready, get all of my design work
as far as using my sketch pencils and my pens. We’ll
go through here and put like all these designs to
correlate my beadwork and then from there kind of
decide what kind of color scheme I am going to
use. For my last beadwork, I used different colors
for every single warrior. I asked my
daughter, you know, what color she
wanted. Of course, she wanted pink. I am
not really too happy with doing pink warriors but
you know my daughter gets what she wants so I have
to figure out how I am going to do that. I know
you’ll be designing for your kids and you know for
yourself so you will have to do your own color
coordinations too. So to recap, the materials that
we are working with this is just crib felt material
which you can find at most you know material
stores, Walmart, anywhere else you can find
it and the other part is this is actually from
sketch pads. This is sketching paper. It is a
little bit more stiff and also heat bond. And going
on through beading you also have to figure out
what style of beads that you are going to
use, your glass, cut beads or your regular
beads plus your different sizes. Your different
sizes will incorporate, you know, like the smaller
beads. It’s going to take you a little bit more time
but you’ll have a more vibrant design. So once
you get all your beads ready to go you’ll you
know have your correlating sizes of needles and your
beads. This way you will have all your materials. On the next episode I am going to show you
the technique and the mechanics on how I do my
flat stitch beading. Flat stitch is pretty
simple, you know, you don’t have to be a
world class beader. This is very easy and is one of
the more efficient styles of beading that I think
of. So when you go to your local craft store, you’ll
see there are different styles of needles,
different styles of threads. You’ll
have to just, you know, figure out
which one you are more accustomed to and
which one you are more comfortable with. I use
the little smaller size 11 needles. I find it is
easier to work with those ones and you’ll actually
see that there are actually different densities as
far as the threads. You might have kind of
noticed in the background here I have
a set of bustles. These bustles are very dear to
me. Throughout my life, I’ve always
watched my late dad, Doyle Lonelodge, growing
up watching him dance with these bustles and that is
kind of what I wanted to do is emphasize that when
you do regalia work, you know, don’t
skimp, you know, take the extra time to do
more detail and make it very structured because
sometimes when it comes down to it is when you no
longer need it you know you can actually pass this
regalia on to someone behind you. ♪ [MUSIC] ♪ My dad, you know, he
had these bustles and these bustles
are actually 30 years old. Growing up, you know, I used to watch
him dance and, you know, we were at the
powwow together and stuff and I’d always
be envious that, you know,
someday, you know, I’ll get those bustles and
what not and it came down to it that you know my dad
got cancer and there was a powwow
locally around here that we had always gone to
and when he was bedridden, you know, he asked
me, he was like “Well, you know, I think it is
time for you to wear these bustles and go out
there to that powwow for us.” And so I did and I went to
Redmoon Powwow. I danced my hardest with these
bustles and you know it was very hard to
and at the time, you know, I brought home, you know, the
first place trophy to him. And you know that
was the last time I actually had with him. So,
that’s why I just want to emphasize
you know keep this regalia and make them very
durable because you know you are going to be passing
these onto someone later on. So, once again, I
want to thank everyone for tuning into our show here
“Making Regalia” on this episode on getting
started into beading. And you know I want to put out
there that if you miss any episodes or you want to
like review anything you can always go to That’s where all the episodes
are hosted, and you can catch up on anything
that you missed. And in the next episode, I am
going to go through the mechanics on how I do my
flat stitch beading. So once again thank
you everyone for tuning in. Hahou. Narrator: Catching up
on previous episodes of “Making Regalia” is
now easy, just visit Juaquin’s projects and detailed
instructions are all accessible on our new website 24/7. Be sure to check out all
the CATV47 programs and videos at ♪[ MUSIC ] ♪


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